Simatai to Jinshanling

 

We were told beforehand that the second day's walking, from Simatai to Jinshanling, would be the best and indeed it was. It was really tough going (especially having done an extra bit at the start), but it was oh-so-beautiful: really classic wall, and incredible surroundings. I spent most of the day walking with Louisa, another photo-nut, who shared the "Most Boring Conversation" award with me at the end of the week, thanks to our endless ramblings about apertures, exposures, etc. Great fun.

This film is one of the two black & white rolls I took to China - since we'd been told it was seriously good wall on this day, I thought it was a good candidate for moody "arty" shots, and I'm pretty pleased with the results. In case anyone's interested, the film is Ilford XP2, which you process just like normal colour film (so it's cheaper than normal black & white) and which comes out in these lovely sepia tones.

It's got to be said: this was a truly great day, one of the best I've ever had.

 
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Looking back at Simatai
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 41733 bytes (40.75 kb)

Looking back at the way we've just come - up the steep Simatai section. This is the extra bit some of us were stupid enough to do at the start of the day: straight up, up, up, then straight back down, down, down. It was really hard, but I'm really glad I did it.

You can see the distant start of Jinshanling section, which we've got to get back to and start going along, in the top-right of the frame. Those trekkers sensible enough to not do the extra bit had passed that point a little while before I took this photo - much catching up to do!

 
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Climbing the Simatai section
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 60497 bytes (59.08 kb)

Here we are on the way up the Simatai section, surrounded by hawkers. The chap sat down facing us was "my" hawker, although I managed to not notice that fact until about an hour later.

 
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Brick on stairs on Simatai section
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 40027 bytes (39.09 kb)

Here's a brick in the rise of a step on the Simatai section. The actual brick's horizontal, but I've rotated the image since the lettering is the interesting part, really.

This is a good example of my images being cropped at the side: there should be some mortar visible at the bottom of the image, and indeed there is on the negative.

 
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The Simatai Suicide Squad
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Photo by Anthony Feasey 104549 bytes (102.10 kb)

Here they are: the fourteen trekkers certifiably crazy enough to follow Anthony up the extra Simatai section. At this point we'd managed to shake off the hawkers (they knew we were coming back down anyway), hence the smiles. We went a little bit further up (one more tower I think?) but this was basically the top for us.

Front row: Laura (pay attention, girl!), Rich, Bek (wrong Hat!), Chris, Louisa, Neil.

Back row: Yours truly, David, Llew, Oli, Kit, Hugh, Emma, Kim.

 
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Last bit of Simatai
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 47716 bytes (46.60 kb)

I'm pretty sure this watchtower was as far as we got on the Simatai climb. We could have walked further but time was pressing: we had to turn around, descend, and catch up with the others by sundown.

I'm also pretty sure that the left-hand window in the watchtower is the one where I took my favourite shot.

 
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We are mighty!
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 45263 bytes (44.20 kb)

Hugh, Anthony, Kit, Llew, Kim, and David at the top of the Simatai section. Anthony in typically exuberant mood. Note that everyone else looks knackered.

 
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My favourite photo from the whole trek!
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 57797 bytes (56.44 kb)

Here it is: my favourite photo from the trek. Yes, OK, so it's not incredibly original or anything - I don't care, I think it looks great. I made several attempts at a "naturally framed" shot like this and this is definitely the one that worked best.

This was taken at the top of the Simatai section, which was the very hard extra bit some of us did at the start of the second day.

 
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Chain bridge at Simatai
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 61564 bytes (60.12 kb)

This fabulous chain bridge links the two sections at Simatai, so after we ascended and descend the Simatai section, we had to cross this to start the Jinshanling section.

Don't worry folks, it doesn't matter how much it rocks back & forth and bounces up & down, it won't throw you off - honest. Oh, what fun we had.

 
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Oooh, that hurt
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 32804 bytes (32.04 kb)

Looking back at the Simatai section from the other side of the valley. We reached the wall by the path from the right, which at that point was thronged with hawkers waiting to pick us up. The plan was to turn right (which would in itself annoy them) and hotfoot it up to the first tower, have a short rest, then continue to the second, shaking them off along the way.

Unfortunately it didn't work, and as it's a pretty steep long section, and it was pretty hot, it absolutely killed us. By the time we reached the second tower I was seriously regretting agreeing to this extra section, and basically not having any fun at all. Fortunately by the time we got to about the fifth, I'd cheered up and started enjoying myself. By the top, I was feeling great. This particular bit of wall, however, will always be "ouch" in my mind.

 
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Jinshanling section: first few watchtowers
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 28193 bytes (27.53 kb)

The first bit of wall on the Jinshanling section. Gorgeous, isn't it?

 
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Off the wall
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 40754 bytes (39.80 kb)

This piece of wall was so rough as to be unwalkable (unless you were exceptionally intrepid which, at this point in the day, we weren't), so you take a path beside it for a few hundred yards. This was the first point the guides became useful, in that the path wasn't always completely obvious - but having said that, if they'd been absent I'm sure we'd have figured it out. Anyway, nice wall, eh?

 
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Looking back at Simatai from Jinshanling section
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 23395 bytes (22.85 kb)

In the hazy distance we have the Simatai section which some of us were stupid enough to climb before tackling the Jinshanling section. At bottom right you can see the path which took us onto the wall, and the ouch section. We climbed as far as the seventh or eighth watchtower, which are somewhere in the top middle. Blimey.

In the foreground we have a bit of Jinshanling section which I think we had to take a path around because it was too rough.

 
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Follow the crumbly brick road
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 35974 bytes (35.13 kb)

Follow the crumbly brick road, follow the crumbly brick road, follow follow follow follow follow the crumbly brick road. Etc.

 
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Looking back at Jinshanling section
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 39670 bytes (38.74 kb)

A nice little retrospective shot of part of the Jinshanling section. From the height the picture was taken at you can judge the steepness of the bit I'd just climbed. It also looks to me as if the curvy section between the watchtowers is that seen in this shot.

 
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Calling all Goths
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 44057 bytes (43.02 kb)

There you go: a nice moody wintery shot. Why not consider a trip to the Great Wall for your next angst-ridden gothic rock video?

For some reason I look at this photo and think "Scotland". Bizarre.

 
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Be careful!
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 50399 bytes (49.22 kb)

Check out that ice! At this point our guides truly excelled themselves. Without their constant exhortations to "be careful" I shudder to think what may have happened.

Actually, in all seriousness, I'm sure that when the earlier group went through, the guides were supremely helpful to some of the less sure-footed trekkers. But Louisa and I didn't really want their help, so all they could do was tell us to be careful and point at the ice which, whilst amusing, also got quite annoying. Hey ho. :-)

 
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A missed opportunity
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 28502 bytes (27.83 kb)

Now here's the biggest reason I have for wishing the guides had left us alone. At this point they guided us off the wall, and along the path to the left - you can see some people on it in the photo. All well and good, we'd been guided off the wall earlier too. So, imagine our horror and disappointment later that day when Anthony told us you could go over, and he had gone over - it was just the guides being lazy. Really annoying.

Here is the other side of the bit we missed.

 
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Portrait of Louisa
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 43688 bytes (42.66 kb)

Here's Louisa, who I walked with for the afternoon, from Simatai to Jinshanling. I had a really great time walking with her, talking about photography and the like, and she's and I subsequently won the joint prize for "Most Boring Conversation" - ie about cameras! What can I say? Harsh but fair, harsh but fair. :-)

I do hope Louisa likes this photo, because I'd hate to have to take it offline...

 
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Cunning defences on the wall
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 38506 bytes (37.60 kb)

The bits on the left of the path on the way up are little walls for defenders to hide behind and ambush attackers from, while their compatriots climbed the ladder into the watchtower and pulled it up behind them. Presumably the stupid ones stayed outside, doing the ambushing, while the clever ones got into the watchtower. :-)

Here's the same place but from a different angle, and in colour.

 
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Thumbs up for the wall!
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 59398 bytes (58.01 kb)

Let's hear it for the Great Wall of China. Here we see two photography geeks on the wall, hoping that the guide taking the picture is not about to run away with the gorgeous Canon A-1. Damn, my nose looks big.

 
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Crumbly bit on Jinshanling section
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 31096 bytes (30.37 kb)

I can't decide if I like this photo or not. I think I do, but a bit of me is saying it's not as interesting as it appears it should be, if that makes sense. All comments appreciated.

 
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Guides
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 33149 bytes (32.37 kb)

Mine and Louisa's guides on the Simatai to Jinshanling section. These guys followed us all the way, helping us where we wanted help (which to be honest was almost nowhere), saying "be careful" repeatedly, and attempting to sell us a book and postcards at the end of the line. I bought from mine, since he'd been such a trooper.

 
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Gutted
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 34136 bytes (33.34 kb)

Here's the rest of the bit of wall we missed because the guides lazily took us around it instead of over it. Well, maybe they weren't being lazy, maybe they were concerned for our safety... But to find out afterwards we could have done this section was vexing to say the least.

Here is the other side.

 
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Nearly there
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 16555 bytes (16.17 kb)

Approaching the end of the Jinshanling section. Now that the end was in sight our spirits really buoyed up - we'd been worried we weren't going to make it. The village of Jinshanling, where we stayed that night, is nestling in the valley in the top-right of the picture.

 
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Setting sun over Jinshanling
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 12002 bytes (11.72 kb)

This looks better on the printed version I've got at home, because the wall's basically completely in silhouette. All the same, I think it's quite nice. This was taken at about four o'clock in the afternoon, I guess.

 
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Peace, perfect peace
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Photo by Andy Gimblett 54406 bytes (53.13 kb)

Once we reached the end of the "core" section of wall we were supposed to be walking, we continued onto a short extra section. By this point we were absolutely elated - a hard day's walking was coming to an end and it had been great, we felt physically fantastic, and best of all, the hawkers didn't follow us onto this section. The peace was just incredible. You could stop and listen and hear nothing but birds and the occasional distant voice. It was absolutely gorgeous: one of the golden moments of my life.

 
Don't forget: you can click on the thumbnail images for bigger versions!